Saturday, August 29, 2009
Food
Meal 1: Obligatory Pizza Post (OPP)
To celebrate our new pizza peel and Home Depot stone-tile-cum-pizza-stone, I made pizza dough, using an approximation of Alton Brown’s dough recipe, doubled. Because I don’t have a bread machine, I had to mix and knead the dough by hand, which with a large granite surface is surprisingly easy.
A day later, after a trip to the farmer’s market, we had the necessary ingredients: provolone, tomatoes, fresh garlic, crimini mushrooms. I like mozzarella too, but it didn’t look that good, and was expensive.
To make things more interesting, I threw together some meatballs with pepper, salt, bread crumbs, egg, parsley and red pepper. Fresh herbs and onion would have been nice too.
When these were almost done, in went the mushrooms, which look irresistible as they fry in a pool of beef fat.
As you can see, I need to work on my pizza tossing and forming technique. This was, in fact, the first time that I’d used a peel and stone, which despite their many advantages are not as indispensible as some would have you believe. A very hot oven and a pan are more than adequate for small pizzas, when used properly.
The pizzas were composed of sliced tomato, garlic, provolone, meatball, mushroom, basil and olive oil, and topped with red pepper and grana padano.
The asymmetry doesn't bother me in itself, but still, a less-than-ideally formed pie. The second attempt was clearly better.
Although I prefer a thinner, crispier crust, this dough produced a good base for the pizza: substantial without being too chewy. Frankly, I think that fresh tomatoes are a poor substitute for sauce, except when used for specific preparations, like a good margherita-style pie. Not wanting to break open a six-pound can of San Marzano tomatoes, however, my options were limited. I also missed the mozzarella. Overall, a delicious though significantly flawed preliminary effort.
Meal 2: Beef Stir-Fry
As with the pizza, the second meal described here was thrown together in a somewhat haphazard fashion. We had recently been given some Chinese ingredients – soy sauce, black vinegar, fermented soy beans – and had the usual staples – onion, garlic, ginger, chiles, etc – lying around. More than enough for a straightforward stir-fry, which is exactly what this was. Accompanied by steamed basmati rice flavored with a hint of sesame seed oil.
Ingredients:
Corn oil and Sesame seed oil
Garlic, Ginger, Chinese Chiles, Star Anise, Cumin, Onion, Green Pepper
Ground Beef, Crimini Mushrooms and Celery
Sichuan Peppercorn, Five Spice, MSG and Sugar
Fermented Bean Paste, Black Vinegar and Soy Sauce
Meal 3: Beef and Pork Rib Ragu with Sauteed Mushrooms
The ragu was the most premeditated of this week’s meals; in fact, the only one for which the protein – pork rib tips – was deliberately selected. Unfortunately, the fresh herbs available at the Hispanic supermarket nearby were limited to cilantro and a variety of mints. To their credit, a full array of dried herbs, including the bay leaves, oregano and thyme that I wanted were sold in large containers by weight, probably representing a value something like 1000% better than the absurdly packaged and priced offerings from McCormick and its ilk.
Ingredients:
Olive Oil
Onion, Garlic, Thyme, Crushed Red Pepper, Oregano and Parsley
Salt and Pepper
About equal portions of Ground Beef and Pork Rib Tips
Carrot and Celery
Bay Leaves
Red Wine, Chicken Stock and Water
Tomato Paste
Milk
Grana Padano
Process:
Brown pork rib tips in olive oil. Remove. Add more olive oil. Add beef, onions, garlic, herbs and seasoning. Saute. Add carrot and celery. Continue sauté. Add liquids, tomato paste, rib tips and bay leaves. Simmer, then reduce heat to lowest level and cover. Go back to work for approximately 4 hours. More time can only make the flavors better, but make sure you have added enough liquid. Even with a lid, liquids will get incorporated and some will escape as the hours go on. I thought I had added enough water to be present for the final reduction when I got back from work. In fact, the liquid was nearly gone, and the bottom of the pan was beginning to develop a crust, which I reincorporated with some more red wine. Finish with milk, grated nutmeg (optional) and cheese and a touch of olive oil, if the pork and beef fat don’t seem sufficient. Eat with a hearty pasta – we only had penne, although this particular penne worked quite well – as well as more cheese and freshly ground black pepper. I also added crimini mushrooms, simply sauteed in olive oil.
Adding the cheese:
Bringing it together:Mushrooms are delicious.
Mmmmmm
Result:
For me, one of the most satisfying dishes of all: rich, delicious, filling and deep. This particular ragu fed two large men for two dinners and two lunches a piece. It improves substantially in the refrigerator, if you can wait.
Meal 4: Chicken Curry a la Tikka Masala with Indian-style Eggplant and Plantain Stir-fry, Salad
(Forgive the flash)
A hastily thrown together meal, featuring microwave defrosted chicken breast and a farmer’s market eggplant whose time had come. The good thing about Indian curries is that they can be, and usually are, composed almost entirely of dry goods – onions, garlic, ginger, chile, spices – things that you can have on hand at any given time. This dish is meant to be reminiscent of the popular creamy tomato curry known as Tikka Masala, without the tikka, of course. The creaminess comes from a combination of 2% milk, dessicated coconut, almond butter, and macadamia nuts ground to a paste with a pestle.
Ingredients for Chicken Curry:
Oil
Tadka (For this dish: Cumin Seeds, Garlic, Ginger, Mustard Seed/Urad dal mix, Red Chiles)
Turmeric, Green Cardamom, Black Cardamom, Cinnamon stick, Cloves, Coriander and Garam Masala
Onion
Chicken
Tomato Paste
Milk and Water
Dessicated Coconut, Almond Butter and Macadamia Nut Paste
Ingredients for Stir-fry:
Oil
Garlic, Ginger and Fenugreek Seeds
Coriander, Turmeric and Garam Masala
Eggplant
Green Plantain
Process:
For Curry: heat oil and add cumin seeds. Fry briefly, then add rest of tadka. Fry for a minute, then add the rest of the spices and onion. Fry for a couple minutes, then add chunks of chicken. Fry for a couple minutes, then add milk, water, coconut and tomato paste. Simmer, then finish with nut pastes.
It should look like this:
For stir-fry: heat oil in a wok. Fry garlic, ginger and fenugreek seeds. Add other spices, then eggplant and plantain.
Something like this:
Serve curry and stir-fry with steamed basmati rice.
Some beautiful tomato never hurts
Result:
The curry was delicious, even more so the next day. The stir-fry was good, but the plantains were not cooked properly. I imagine they would be better if first boiled, fried for longer, or possibly just cut up much smaller. I like the subtle flavor they bring, and I see potential in their texture. In this attempt, however, they were sort of firm and crumbly. The accompanying salad is composed of beautifully ripe tomatoes, spring greens, pine nuts, grana padano, salt, pepper, olive oil and balsamic. Not a traditional accompaniment to curry, but quite good.
Feel free to try this at home.
King Boletus
Thursday, August 27, 2009
Summer Feasta!
Sunday, August 23, 2009
The King of Sandwiches
Heirloom to the dome
Bounty of da ERF
How dank does that look? A few early season apples on the left, four boxes of incredible raspberries dead center, stone fruit (read: peaches and nectarines) surrounding the berry bounty, all flanked by 5 enourmous heirlooms.
Thursday, August 20, 2009
Porchetta: A Love Story
My most beloved preparation of pig is porchetta. No doubt about it, the sliced porchetta sandwich was my choice. The sandwich, which I think has changed since serious eats reviewed the place, is on a toasted rosemary brioche with all sorts of sauteed goodness (peppers, onions, olives etc). The meat was so tender amidst its corpulent frame it brought a tear to my eye. It was riddled with heavily herbed fat that ultimately negated the addition for cheese. Salty, succulent, perfect. With porchetta, love happens.
- DG
Sunday, August 16, 2009
Hot Sauce
Saturday, August 15, 2009
MER pancakes
It's amore
On the topic of dough, I rarely follow a recipe. While much of the blogosphere seems focused on imitating the exactitude of many of New York's finest pizzerias, I find myself haphazardly throwing together flour and water until I sense the dough has reached the appropriate consistency. 5 cups of flour and 2 cups of water usually combine nicely. Coupled with the gas creating power of maybe 2 teaspoons of active dry yeast, I find my recent batches of dough to have been crisp on the outside and chewy on the inside.
The Earth Doth Giveth
Tuesday, August 11, 2009
"Hedonism has no rules!"
Night 1
Began the eating an hour after landing at a tapas restaurant in Napa. Since the home cooked meals require the most attention, I will try to be brief with meals out. This dinner was insanely good for a brief post-flight and late night meal. Grilled mackerel, sardines, etc.
Day 2
The next day we went to lunch at a well-known Napa restaurant called Mustards (The chef was on Top Chef Masters but I found her irritating and the impressionable clientele rolling up in rented limos supported this sentiment). The meal was actually awesome, but details are not really necessary.
The pièce de résistance of the trip, Larry’s magnum opus, was the dinner for this evening - the hallowed pizza dinner. Larry, as some of you know, has an awesome outdoor pizza oven (he also has an awesome indoor pizza oven too). Larry’s property is flush with the best produce one can imagine (tomatoes, beets, corn, every herb, meyer lemons, leeks, limes, peppers, the list is endless). Larry is also a dynamite chef. While the fire raged in the pizza oven (he got it up to around 850 degrees before spreading out the coals), he prepared his works of art. His dough has the perfect texture, bite, and flavor (he uses a sourdough starter). Five people, six pizzas.
Pizza 1: Classic Margherita – fresh tomato sauce (perhaps the most underrated aspect of his pizza), some buffalo muzz, a lot of fresh basil, an assortment of red and yellow cherry tomatoes from the backyard.
Pizza 2: Corn from the backyard, pancetta, cilantro pesto, and his preferred mixture of cheeses (aged asiago and provelone) This pizza might have been the best. The pancetta, pesto and cheese were the perfect salty foil for the ultra sweet corn.
Pizza 3: The foie gras pizza. No sauce, a mixture of sautéed shallots and leeks, and pear-apple hybrids from one of his trees. This goes into the oven for a bit, he pulls it out, sprinkles liberally with foie gras, back in the oven, onto the plate, rage.
Pizza 4: His tomato sauce, buffalo mozz, asiago/provelone combo, sweet sausage, and peppers from his garden that were blistered in a cast iron pan in the pizza oven earlier in the evening. Bomb.
Pizza 5: No sauce, shallots and leeks mixture, figs, blue cheese. Yes.
Pizza 6: sauce, mozz, asiago/provelone, a different kind of sausage mixed with hot peppers from the garden, mushrooms. However, he bestowed the cooking honors upon my father and myself.
After...
Our problem was that we missed a crucial step. We did not blow under the dough before sliding into the oven as seen in this picture -
Dessert was a rhubarb crisp/crumble with crème fraiche.
Larry contently sips on his wine.
Food coma.
Day 3
With the dreamscape of last night’s pizza parade still fully on my mind (pancetta and corn is an unreal combo), Larry’s compass was fully set on brunch. One of larry’s best qualities is his eternal focus on the next meal. Since our plan was to go to San Francisco to see the King Tut exhibit, Larry’s gaze fixed on a seafood joint in Sausalito called Fish. The picture explains a lot.
A seared salmon banh mi was incredible, summer ceviche, tuna and white bean salad, fish tacos etc. After this feast the people clamored about the amount of food consumed and the early dinner reservation – Larry responded - “I feel very comfortable, I will be ready in 3 hours.” Your move.
Sidenote: King Tut would probably be rolling in his sarcophagus after that exhibit. A Disney-land esque production. I doth protest too much, this was just to pass the time anyway.
Dinner was at a great restaurant in SF called Range. While everything was typically excellent one dish stood out. Marinated leeks with a poached egg shaved parmesan and a breadcrumbs. Put a perfectly poached egg on anything and it will probably be awesome.
Sidenote: Larry frequently eats with a spoon, which I suspect stems from a fear of losing a morsel of his meal through the precipitous gaps of the fork.
Also, cardamom ice cream.
Day 4
Gout would have abruptly set in without our daily exercise routine. Calories and rendered fat were dispatched vis-à-vis competitive tennis matches (morning and afternoon) and walks through town and country.
Larry is a damn nimble tennis player for his age and his “Hedonism has no rules!” t-shirt belies the rules of both biology and physics (copius amounts of food and drink do not restrict his lateral movement, at least on the tennis court).
A relaxing afternoon ultimately gave way to the final dinner at Larry's house.
Sussman once said “I love mixed grills” Not surprisingly, Larry’s first comment before dinner was precisely, “I love mixed grills.”And I, too, love mixed grills.
But first to the appetizers.
Larry’s bocadillos (he kept calling them boquerones but I’ll forgive.) baguette rubbed with garlic and tomato topped with his iberico ham (he has a whole haunch of this spanish beast in his fridge)
Head cheese on toasted bread. Head cheese is perfection. Nuff said
Abalone sashimi (picked off the rocks from his house in northern California, Gualala to be exact)
Gazpacho with roasted beets with olive oil and croutons: tastes more like a borscht, but nonetheless the best gazpacho I have ever had.
Vodka and tonic with calamondin zest (calamondins are these tiny orange fruits that taste like a combination of kumquats and limes, essentially nature’s sour patch kid) He has a calamondin tree. Attention amateurs, Step your game up.
Mixed Grill:
This dish contains the following:
Crepinettes (assorted ground meats and offal wrapped in caul fat)
Merguez sausage
Rabbit marinated in garlic, kaffir lime leaf zest, oil and some other stuff
Duck legs in the same marinade
Grilled Abalone that had been sitting in melted butter
Grilled corn wrapped in fig leaves.
Close-up of a crepinette in all of its fatty glory.
Roasted potato/turnip hybrids with rosemary and butter. Outrageous.
Marinated Lima Beans
Vietnamese watermelon grown in the backyard from smuggled seeds.
My lofty expectations had been met and then thoroughly surpassed.
Larry does not, by definition, possess an insatiable appetite; for you can sate this man with various permutations of the fat, salt, protein/produce trifecta. Amidst this food centered orbit you get accustomed to a cyclical pattern akin to a Bourdain-like gastro-erotic analogy. Foreplay (the musing and preparation) gives way to the climax (eating) which ultimately fades into afterglow (coma).
Day 5
Final Day
To cap off the trip we ate dinner in San Fran at a restaurant Larry has invested in called Water Bar. Two dozen Point Reyes oysters and one filet of sole later it was over. Red eye back to NY.
I am now writing this on a Virgin America flight in their “night club inspired aircraft.”
It was a great trip led by our fearless leader - a man determined not to let the surrounding women slow him down (although it was close). Larry is what I would call a pragmatic hedonist; pleasure comes at a calculated cost which never undermines his responsibility as both friend and host (Although it may undermine his good standing as a taxpayer). Rarely do I admit defeat, but the tennis series ended 4 sets to 2 in his favor. And people think this lifestyle is unsustainable.
Thanks Lar,